Book Review: Revolutionaries, by Sanjeev Sanyal

 My school going daughter refuses to believe India won freedom through non-violence. “Why would the British leave, unless they were kicked out?” is the simple question which our history books fail to adequately answer. I remember that when I was in school, me and my friends faced the same question. Clearly, some pieces of the jigsaw puzzle were missing. The story was never complete, we never got to see the whole picture.

But here it is. In his latest book "Revolutionaries – The Other Story of how India won its Freedom", Sanjeev Sanyal challenges the conventional narratives and brings to light the revolutionary side of India’s freedom struggle. It is a fascinating book - fast paced, racy and thrilling, but at the same time tragic to the core. It is a story that simply needs to be told. Over and over again.

How did a group of young men and women from different backgrounds and regions come together to form a network of resistance against British rule? How did they plan and execute daring acts of sabotage or assassination? Did they succeed, and if they failed – why did they fail? What happened to them afterwards? More importantly, were these just isolated acts of individual bravado, or part of a larger gameplan to uproot The Empire from Indian soil? These are the questions Sanyal tries to answer.

The book starts somewhere in the late 19^th century. The Uprising of 1857 had been crushed, and Britain had established absolute hegemony over the Indian subcontinent. But the undercurrents of anger and dissatisfaction remained. The author starts with an overview of the political situation at that time, which provides an excellent context to the story that follows. The subsequent chapters then follow a largely chronological order and provide a seamlessly woven narrative of how the revolution unfolded. Or did it? The readers can judge for themselves.

Of course, some aspects of the revolutionary side are well known, such as the story of Veer Savarkar & the Cellular Jail, the travails of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose or the daredevilry of Shahid Bhagat Singh or Chandra Shekhar Azad. But what about the rest? What about the extraordinary life of Pandurang Khankhoje (I bet you have never heard of him)? The dedication and commitment of Sachindra Nath Sanyal. About Barin Ghosh. The heart wrenching love story of Ullaskar Dutt & Lila. The untold side of Jallianwala Bagh. The role of Japan in India’s freedom struggle. The Naval Mutiny. And a lot, lot more. There are countless stories of exceptional bravery and courage. But also, of shocking treachery and deceit. Of frightening cruelty and cunning. They are all strung together like beads in a chain. I am sure you know nothing of this, and after reading the book, you will wonder why no one told you this before. Sanyal has done us Indians a favor, and we should be eternally grateful to him for the same.

Sanyal’s simple and easy-going style makes reading the book a breeze. His personal visits to the places mentioned, and how they stand today adds the author’s personal touch to the gripping events those places witnessed a hundred years ago.

Interestingly, the book doesn’t end with India winning freedom. The author goes one step beyond the event – what happened to the revolutionaries who survived to see India win freedom? Did the country do justice to them? In fact, have we really got freedom, or the slave mentality still exists? Clearly, Sanyal has gone much farther than what an ordinary history book would normally take us to. And this makes it much more complete. For, if you study the past, you can understand the present better. The present is nothing but a continuation of the past.

Having read "The Ocean of Churn" earlier, I was keen to read the “Revolutionaries” as well. And the book did not disappoint, far bettering even my elevated expectations. Don’t miss it. 

Thank you, Mr. Sanyal.

Dekho Apna Megh! - Part 2

 In the previous post (click here), I described my visit to the capital city Shillong. In this post, I write about the other places I visited during the visit – mainly, Mawlynnong, the Krang Shuri waterfalls, Dawki and Cherrapunjee.

In Mawlynnong, our first port of call was a visit to a “Living Root Bridge”. The living root bridges of Meghalaya are a unique and remarkable feature of the state's landscape. These bridges, found in the dense forests of the region, are made entirely of living trees and roots, and are woven together over time to form sturdy, naturally grown bridges.

A "Living Root Bridge" - Unique and spectacular.

Meghalaya has several such bridges which are made from the roots of the rubber (“ficus elastica”) trees. The tribal people of Meghalaya have been weaving these roots for centuries to create bridges that can support the weight of several people at once. Living root bridges are not only a fascinating engineering feat, but also an important part of the local culture and tradition. Visiting these is a unique and unforgettable experience. The bridges are located in some of the state's most beautiful and remote areas and are a testament to the ingenuity, creativity, and resilience of the local communities. They are a fascinating example of nature's ability to provide sustainable solutions to the challenges of modern life.

Mawlynnong is also famously known as the "Asia's Cleanest Village”. The village is home to around 500 people of the Khasi tribe. The villagers take pride in their cleanliness and have made it a priority to keep their village spotless. The village is a hub for eco-tourism and offers visitors the opportunity to experience traditional village life while also learning about sustainable living practices. For those having more time, almost every household offers a “homestay” option where visitors can spend a few days. Mawlynnong has received numerous awards and accolades, including the "Best Village Tourism Award" from the Ministry of Tourism, Government of India, and has been featured in several international travel magazines and documentaries.

A street view in Mawlynnong village

We took a stroll at the village, looked around the natural beauty, dined and shopped at the local shops. I tried to speak to a few villagers but found them reluctant to engage in a conversation.

The next day, we headed to Krang Shuri. The Krang Shuri Waterfalls are located on the Eastern side of Meghalaya, roughly between Jowai and Dawki. It’s a pity many tour operators skip these falls, as the location is out of the way from the main tourist circuits of Shillong – Cherrapunjee – Dawki. But these falls are perhaps the most beautiful and spectacular waterfalls in the state and are a “must-visit” site for anyone traveling to Meghalaya. The falls are surrounded by lush green forests, and the sound of the cascading water creates a serene and peaceful ambiance. You get life jackets on rent if you want to take a dip in the (chilling cold!) water. There are changing rooms for tourists. Apart from the view of the waterfall from below, one can go on top of the waterbed from where the stream comes. Tourists can also enjoy boating and watch the scenery around. A visit to Meghalaya is incomplete without visiting Krang Shuri.

The mesmerizing beauty of Krang Shuri is not to be missed

From Krang Shuri, we came to the border town of Dawki, situated on the banks of the Umngot River. The river is known for its crystal-clear waters, so transparent that boats appear to be floating on air. The best time of the day to visit Dawki is around noon, when the sun is overhead and sun rays penetrate right down to the bottom of the river. Visitors can take a boat ride on the river, spend time on its banks filled with picturesque rocks and enjoy the spectacular views of the surrounding hills. Visitors to Dawki can also visit the India – Bangladesh border and snatch a bargain from the garment vendors who walk over from the other side!

Take a boat ride in the Umngot River 

A word of caution here – the roads around Dawki were in bad shape when we visited. Further, they have heavy truck traffic, so visitors should base their time calculations keeping adequate margin in mind. The distances look short on a map, but it takes much longer to reach your destination! Luckily for us, we visited Dawki on a Sunday, when the truckers have a holiday and traffic was far less.

After Dawki, we visited Cherrapunjee, which has now been renamed Sohra. The place is famous for being one of the wettest places on earth. Cherrapunjee is also known for its beautiful waterfalls, bridges and limestone caves. The most popular tourist attraction in the region is the Nohkalikai Falls, which is the fourth highest waterfall in India. The waterfall is located just a few kilometers from the town and is surrounded by lush green forests. The water here falls from a height of about 1100 feet and creates a spectacular sight. Visitors can take a short hike to the viewpoint to get a closer look at the falls and to enjoy the picturesque views of the surrounding hills.

The Nohkalikai Falls is another beauty that will leave you spellbound.

Another important place to visit is the Mawsmai Caves. Mawsmai caves are a network of limestone caves located just a few kilometers from Cherrapunjee. The caves are popular among adventure seekers and cave enthusiasts as they offer an exciting and challenging experience. Visitors can explore the caves and see the interesting rock formations, underground streams, and limestone formations. Besides these, we also visited the Seven Sisters Waterfall, the Eco Park and a few other viewing points in and around Cherrapunjee.

Overall, I spent six days in Meghalaya. It was an unforgettable experience! 

It is said that if humans were meant to be in one place, we would have had roots, not feet. What are you waiting for? Pack up your bags and leave.

Dekho Apna Megh!

The world, they say, is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page. Well, if we open the chapter called “India” in it, every page will tell a unique story. Last month, I visited Meghalaya, and was left spellbound by what I saw. For a visiting tourist, Meghalaya offers unique sights that you will hardly see anywhere else. What better way to celebrate the "Dekho Apna Desh" campaign than by visiting the abode of the clouds.

Meghalaya, located in India’s northeast, is a state known for its natural beauty, rich culture, and diverse landscape. The state is bordered by Assam to the north and Bangladesh to the south. The name "Meghalaya" translates to "the abode of clouds" in Sanskrit, and the state lives up to its name with its picturesque hills and valleys, often shrouded in mist. 

Meghalaya is home to a population of over 3 million, primarily made up of the Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo tribes. Khasi is the dominant tribe in the state. Each tribe has its own unique culture and traditions, making Meghalaya a melting pot of different customs and practices. The state is also known for its matrilineal society, where property and inheritance are passed down through the female line. Majority of the people are Christian by religion, though I did not find religion playing a dominant role in the society.

The climate of the state is tropical, with heavy rainfall during the monsoon and mild temperatures throughout the year. Cherrapunji (now renamed as Sohra) is known as wettest place on earth.

The capital city of Meghalaya is Shillong, known as the "Scotland of the East" for its picturesque hills and valleys. Interestingly, Shillong was the capital of Assam for almost a hundred years, before Meghalaya became a separate state in 1972. The city is a popular tourist destination and offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and modern amenities. The city is also known for its lively music and nightlife, as well as its colonial architecture and historical sites. It is situated on a hilltop, with narrow winding lanes zig-zagging around single storied houses and street corner shops. The roads are hopelessly inadequate for modern day traffic, and every street has been converted into a one way / no entry street to manage the traffic. The roads are filled with Maruti 800s – perhaps the only cars these narrow streets can accommodate! The city remined me of other similar hilltop-based cities such as Shimla, Gangtok and Mussoorie.

As one approaches the city from Guwahati – the main gateway to India’s North East – one is welcomed by the Umiam Lake. The lake is situated on the outskirts of the city, around 15 km before one reaches Shillong. Surrounded by lush green hills, the lake is a popular tourist spot for boating and fishing. We stopped at the lake, it was sundown time, and the atmosphere was peaceful and serene. The sun sets early in Meghalaya, and in January it was getting dark by 4:30 PM.

The Umiam Lake welcomes you to Shillong

From Umiam Lake, we headed to our hotel in Shillong, and spent the next day visiting popular tourist places in and around the city.

One of the most popular tourist attractions in Shillong is the Elephant Falls - called “Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew” in Khasi, meaning the Three Steps Waterfall. The falls are situated 12 km from the city and offer a beautiful view of cascading water surrounded by lush green forests. The falls are so named because on the side of the falls there was a rock resembling an elephant. The rock however was destroyed in an earthquake in 1897. The falls are a popular spot for picnics and trekking, and there is park nearby which is home to a variety of bird species.

Elephant Falls - the most popular tourist spot in Shillong

Close to the Falls is the Air Force Museum, which showcases the history of the Indian Air Force. The Shillong base of the IAF played an important role in the 1971 war with Pakistan, and one can see artefacts and read stories related to the same.

After the Elephant Falls and the Museum, we planned to head towards the Laitlum Canyon. On the way, we stopped at the Shillong View Point - another popular tourist spot, offering a panoramic view of the city and its surroundings. The viewpoint is located on a hilltop and is a popular spot for photography and sunset watching.

From here, we proceeded towards Laitlum Canyon, which is located around 20 km away from the city. Our driver didn’t know the place, and we spent some time going in circles as Google Maps didn’t seem to show the right route.  A stranger however came to the rescue – search for Smit Valley he said, and we reached the right place!

Laitlum Canyon is said to offer a breath-taking view of the deep gorges and cliffs that have been carved out by the rainwater over the years. But when we reached there, the place was fully enveloped in the clouds! It was quite cold, there was a strong breeze and low visibility. The atmosphere was electric! No views of the valleys but experienced the “abode of the clouds”!

Welcome! - This road goes straight into the clouds!

After the Canyon, we returned to Shillong, and spent some time at the city’s main market, called the Police Bazaar. Police Bazaar is one of the busiest and most popular shopping areas in Shillong, known for its local handicrafts, textiles, and traditional Khasi jewellery. The bazaar is also a great place to try local street food and sample the local cuisine. From here, we returned back to our hotel to rest. The next day, we planned to start early, and go down south towards Mawlynnong and Dawki.

(To be continued…)