Dekho Apna Megh!

The world, they say, is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page. Well, if we open the chapter called “India” in it, every page will tell a unique story. Last month, I visited Meghalaya, and was left spellbound by what I saw. For a visiting tourist, Meghalaya offers unique sights that you will hardly see anywhere else. What better way to celebrate the "Dekho Apna Desh" campaign than by visiting the abode of the clouds.

Meghalaya, located in India’s northeast, is a state known for its natural beauty, rich culture, and diverse landscape. The state is bordered by Assam to the north and Bangladesh to the south. The name "Meghalaya" translates to "the abode of clouds" in Sanskrit, and the state lives up to its name with its picturesque hills and valleys, often shrouded in mist. 

Meghalaya is home to a population of over 3 million, primarily made up of the Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo tribes. Khasi is the dominant tribe in the state. Each tribe has its own unique culture and traditions, making Meghalaya a melting pot of different customs and practices. The state is also known for its matrilineal society, where property and inheritance are passed down through the female line. Majority of the people are Christian by religion, though I did not find religion playing a dominant role in the society.

The climate of the state is tropical, with heavy rainfall during the monsoon and mild temperatures throughout the year. Cherrapunji (now renamed as Sohra) is known as wettest place on earth.

The capital city of Meghalaya is Shillong, known as the "Scotland of the East" for its picturesque hills and valleys. Interestingly, Shillong was the capital of Assam for almost a hundred years, before Meghalaya became a separate state in 1972. The city is a popular tourist destination and offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and modern amenities. The city is also known for its lively music and nightlife, as well as its colonial architecture and historical sites. It is situated on a hilltop, with narrow winding lanes zig-zagging around single storied houses and street corner shops. The roads are hopelessly inadequate for modern day traffic, and every street has been converted into a one way / no entry street to manage the traffic. The roads are filled with Maruti 800s – perhaps the only cars these narrow streets can accommodate! The city remined me of other similar hilltop-based cities such as Shimla, Gangtok and Mussoorie.

As one approaches the city from Guwahati – the main gateway to India’s North East – one is welcomed by the Umiam Lake. The lake is situated on the outskirts of the city, around 15 km before one reaches Shillong. Surrounded by lush green hills, the lake is a popular tourist spot for boating and fishing. We stopped at the lake, it was sundown time, and the atmosphere was peaceful and serene. The sun sets early in Meghalaya, and in January it was getting dark by 4:30 PM.

The Umiam Lake welcomes you to Shillong

From Umiam Lake, we headed to our hotel in Shillong, and spent the next day visiting popular tourist places in and around the city.

One of the most popular tourist attractions in Shillong is the Elephant Falls - called “Ka Kshaid Lai Pateng Khohsiew” in Khasi, meaning the Three Steps Waterfall. The falls are situated 12 km from the city and offer a beautiful view of cascading water surrounded by lush green forests. The falls are so named because on the side of the falls there was a rock resembling an elephant. The rock however was destroyed in an earthquake in 1897. The falls are a popular spot for picnics and trekking, and there is park nearby which is home to a variety of bird species.

Elephant Falls - the most popular tourist spot in Shillong

Close to the Falls is the Air Force Museum, which showcases the history of the Indian Air Force. The Shillong base of the IAF played an important role in the 1971 war with Pakistan, and one can see artefacts and read stories related to the same.

After the Elephant Falls and the Museum, we planned to head towards the Laitlum Canyon. On the way, we stopped at the Shillong View Point - another popular tourist spot, offering a panoramic view of the city and its surroundings. The viewpoint is located on a hilltop and is a popular spot for photography and sunset watching.

From here, we proceeded towards Laitlum Canyon, which is located around 20 km away from the city. Our driver didn’t know the place, and we spent some time going in circles as Google Maps didn’t seem to show the right route.  A stranger however came to the rescue – search for Smit Valley he said, and we reached the right place!

Laitlum Canyon is said to offer a breath-taking view of the deep gorges and cliffs that have been carved out by the rainwater over the years. But when we reached there, the place was fully enveloped in the clouds! It was quite cold, there was a strong breeze and low visibility. The atmosphere was electric! No views of the valleys but experienced the “abode of the clouds”!

Welcome! - This road goes straight into the clouds!

After the Canyon, we returned to Shillong, and spent some time at the city’s main market, called the Police Bazaar. Police Bazaar is one of the busiest and most popular shopping areas in Shillong, known for its local handicrafts, textiles, and traditional Khasi jewellery. The bazaar is also a great place to try local street food and sample the local cuisine. From here, we returned back to our hotel to rest. The next day, we planned to start early, and go down south towards Mawlynnong and Dawki.

(To be continued…)